In a city that is ever-changing, there is something comforting about going back to our roots – a simple, hearty meal from a food hawker. Singapore has one of the most colourful dining scenes in the world, and we have our pioneer hawkers who paved the way to thank for that. Feeling sentimental yet? Let’s take a moment to pay homage to these food stalls who have helped create our unique cultural identity.
Authentic Hock Lam St Popular Beef Kway Teow
The origins of the OG Hock Lam Street Beef Kway Teow goes way back to 1911, when Mr Tan Chee Kok started a Teochew beef noodle stall in his hometown of Shantou, China. Beef noodles was the only trade he knew when he moved to Singapore, and he sold them from two large pots slung on a bamboo pole across his shoulders.
Ten years later, his son joined him in the business, operating a street side stall at Hock Lam Street. They moved several times over the years, and business was then continued by three of Tan’s grandchildren – Francis Tan, Anthony Tan and eldest daughter Tan Sok Eng. They each operated their own chain of beef noodles in different parts of Singapore, but the only one remaining now is Authentic Hock Lam Street Popular Beef Kway Teow Noodles at North Canal Road. Today it is helmed by Edwin Tan, fourth generation chef-owner and Francis Tan’s son.
Tong Ah Eating House
Tong Ah has been serving traditional breakfast since 1939. They used to be at the junction of Teck Lim Road and Keong Saik Road, where Potato Head now resides. They’ve since moved a stone’s throw way to 35 Keong Saik Road, but the taste remains the same from over 70 years ago.
Everyone comes here for the kaya toast. You can get them in a few different renditions – traditional kaya toast, french toast with kaya, steamed bread with kaya, or the crispy thin toast kaya. The crispy thin toast is toasted three times and they are known for their biscuity texture. Simply a delight to bite into!
Warong Nasi Pariaman
Founded in 1948, Warong Nasi Pariaman is the oldest nasi padang stall in Singapore, named after its founder, Pak Isrin’s hometown in West Sumatra. Today it is still standing in the same spot as it did in the beginning – at the intersection of Kandahar Street and North Bridge Road, just a few steps away from Sultan Mosque.
Now run by Pak Isrin’s son, Pak Jumrin, the preparation of every dish here still sticks to the original recipe. Needless to say, they have loyal fans that span different generations, and they are usually sold out by lunchtime. They serve about 20 dishes everyday but the rendang is a must-try. The spices are grinded by hand and stewed for at least 4 hours over charcoal fire!
Zam Zam Restaurant
Established in 1908 by Haji Mahmud, Zam Zam Restaurant has been serving up murtabak and Indian Muslim dishes for over 100 years! As the oldest hawker in Singapore, its location and recipes have remained unchanged, and the store has been passed down through generations of Haji Mahmud's family.
Controversies and business rivalries aside, what makes the murtabak here special is the additional base layer of prata kosong and a generous amount of egg and minced meat placed on top of the murtabak. The nasi briyani here is also worth a try – it is made using a special family recipe comprising a variety of Indian spices to suit our local taste buds. The meat is also cooked together with the orange-flecked basmati rice, making it that much more fragrant!
Ye Lai Xiang Hot & Cold Dessert
Ye Lai Xiang began as a stall selling cheng tng and cuttlefish kangkong by the seaside in 1939. Today, it can be found in Bedok Corner Food Centre. They still stick to age-old techniques and there is no cutting of corners here – they still dry the longans by hand and double boil the sago. Preparing the cheng tng here is a process that takes several days!
What’s also special about their cheng tng is that it is made with 11 ingredients, including dried persimmons and winter melon strips, which you don’t usually find in cheng tngs. The family recipe has been handed down for three generations now, and there’s just something special about it that you can’t find anywhere else!